Welcome to the AppalachianTrailCafe.net!
Take a moment and register and then join the conversation

Q about working with titanium foil

    This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.

    • Q about working with titanium foil

      I have ordered some titanium foil to make a windscreen for my alcoholstove. I have used aluminum flashing to make many windscreens but though I would try making a titanium version for fun. I have have always used the method where you fold a tab over on both ends, than then hook the overlapping tabs together to form a cylinder, as seen on the first image from this page of the Zenstoves site:

      zenstoves.net/PotStands-WindscreenStands.htm

      With aluminum, you have to put a spacer under the tab when you fold it over to keep the bend from being to sharp and snapping the metal. My question is if titanium will work the same way or will there be some trick to working with it that is different from aluminum? TIA for any tips.

      OMO
    • The titanium is stronger. The hard part is getting the bend where you want it. I start by using the edge of my workbench and a plastic mallet to get the bend started. I have a strip of brass I use as an edge for the second bend. I finish by wacking the folded section flat without spacers with the mallet. Do on both ends of the sheet to create an interlock. The folds take up more length than you might think, my first one was tight so I got to try again. Punch air holes last. I used a straight leather punch with the mallet one quarter inch diameter. The hand punches won't cut the titanium clean like they do aluminum.
    • I now have an answer to my question. My Ti windscreen came in the mail the other day. Folding Ti is like folding paper. I did not have the problem of the metal snapping when creased like Al flashing can. I cut it with ordinary scissors. The edges were not uncomfortably sharp.

      However, it did not work for my application. In my system, the windscreen doubles as the the pot stand and the Ti foil is too flimsy for that application. However I did learn something useful. The windscreen I've been using has 44 intake holes (punched with a paper punch - 1/4" I think). The Ti screen made to the same size only had 14 holes (same size). In a performance test with my eCHS stove and Olicamp XTS pot and my old screen, I boiled 2 cups of 70 deg water in 3:50 using 15 mL methanol. Flame went out at 4:20 so I calculate the boil used 13.3 mL of fuel. However repeating this test with the new windscreen the water failed to boil (reached 190 F in 4:00 min). It would seem that with just 14 holes, my stove is oxygen starved. I've made a new screen with no holes (no flimsy Aluminum) and will keep punching more holes until I find the sweet spot WRT air intake. I'll post the results in the alcohol stove thread when available.
    • odd man out wrote:

      was wondering about. But if it is much thicker, there wouldn't be much advantage over Al. I guess I could,weigh to see how many grams I am worrying about.
      A higher melting point could be a big advantage for fast stoves. I have been meaning to use titanium for a windscreen but never got around to it. Thanks all for the good info.
      I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does
    • I thought about the heat tolerance of Ti might be one advantage but the way my system is set up, the Al wind screen doesn't get very hot at all. During my boil tests, I can take the pot of boiling water off as soon as the stove goes out and pick up the screen with bare hands. It's hot but not hot enough to burn. Likewise with the stove. People who use side burning flame throwers on a narrow pot are going to scorch their wind screen. But if you have that much heat on the wind screen you have an inefficient system.