Alcohol Stoves

BirdBrain · Apr 26th 2014, 5:22am

JSBJSB wrote:

New AT-style hoop in FREVO stove.
Flange using the files tool.cut the lid off.it is Tetkoba's elegant works.
By heating to 200 Celsius,to soften.Guide to the top edge using the pegs sheet bend.
Come along almost horizontal near slopes.This is the new AT-style hoops. :cheer:
Increase of 18,notched up 32 places hem 15 mm slit.In the process inserting tube.Between the schema in your fingertips.Glue to walls and using JB-weld.24 hours after the Jet holes drilling process.
フランジをヤスリで削り、蓋を外す。２００度Cまで加熱して軟化させる。薄い板をガイドに使い上端部を水平近くまで折り曲げる。これは新しいアパラチアントレイルスタイルのフープです。
１８個のクリースを細いラジオペンチで作る。３２個のスリットは１５ｍｍの深さ、裾をクランクに折り曲げる。加工した内筒を挿入する。指先で密着させる。外の角の位置で接着する。２４時間後にJ-Bweldで接着する。其の後で穴あけ加工します。

Are you saying this has already been done? Sorry if I took any credit. I thought you were folding top over. I left top rim on instead of using pegs. Not much difference. Please be patient with me. I am trying best to understand. Did I do anything new?

odd man out · Apr 26th 2014, 9:26am

stoviewander wrote:

I found a Vienna sausage can with a rim that forms a tight seal when forced into a 12 fluid ounce soda can. The gap between the side walls of the cans is too big for capillary action. I will use an extra layer of aluminum to draw the fuel up the side.

I also had this idea but had not found a suitable can. I imagined cutting a strip of aluminum from a can, laying it out flat, denting to make corrugated, cutting to length, and inserting between the walls. Does the sausage can have a hoop on the rim?

BirdBrain · Apr 26th 2014, 9:41am

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

I found a Vienna sausage can with a rim that forms a tight seal when forced into a 12 fluid ounce soda can. The gap between the side walls of the cans is too big for capillary action. I will use an extra layer of aluminum to draw the fuel up the side.

I also had this idea but had not found a suitable can. I imagined cutting a strip of aluminum from a can, laying it out flat, denting to make corrugated, cutting to length, and inserting between the walls. Does the sausage can have a hoop on the rim?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYlyup3HqP0

BirdBrain · Apr 26th 2014, 11:00am

To JSB and TETKoba

I studied your pictures more. All CHS and FREVO stoves are because of your work. The eCHS Stove leaves rim on top. I think that is what makes it easy. Your latest FREVO pictures show that rim off and requires heating and shaping. I think leaving rim on makes it easy. I don't see where this has been done with the FREVO. That is why I called it eFREVO.

This is my question:

Can I call my latest stove eFREVO Stove? Am I being improper? Should I let you name it?

These stoves are your inventions. I leave it up to you. I benefit greatly from your work. I hope my work is of value to you.

Sorry. I edited this many times. I notice JSB and TETKoba are on line now. Hopefully you read this final version.

TETKoba · Apr 26th 2014, 11:16am

BirdBrain wrote:

To JSB and TETKoba

I studied your pictures more. All CHS and FREVO stoves are because of your work. The eCHS Stove leaves rim on top. I think that is what makes it easy. Your latest FREVO pictures show that rim off and requires heating and shaping. I think leaving rim on makes it easy. I don't see where this has been done with the FREVO. That is why I called it eFREVO.

This is my question:

Can I call my latest stove eFREVO Stove? Am I being improper? Should I let you name it?

These stoves are your inventions. I leave it up to you. I benefit greatly from your work. I hope my work is of value to you.

I made a study model today. Your idea is great, This is a new technique to make FREVO stove. I'll take video in next week and post URL before open to the public.

Don't worry! JSB-san and I already call your stove as "eFREVO". It is good name. You are a developer of eFREVO.

BirdBrain · Apr 26th 2014, 11:19am

TETKoba wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

To JSB and TETKoba

I studied your pictures more. All CHS and FREVO stoves are because of your work. The eCHS Stove leaves rim on top. I think that is what makes it easy. Your latest FREVO pictures show that rim off and requires heating and shaping. I think leaving rim on makes it easy. I don't see where this has been done with the FREVO. That is why I called it eFREVO.

This is my question:

Can I call my latest stove eFREVO Stove? Am I being improper? Should I let you name it?

These stoves are your inventions. I leave it up to you. I benefit greatly from your work. I hope my work is of value to you.

I made a study model today. Your idea is great, This is a new technique to make FREVO stove. I'll take video in next week and post URL before open to the public.

Don't worry! JSB-san and I already call your stove as "eFREVO". It is good name. You are a developer of eFREVO.

Thank you so much. I want to do the right thing. These stoves are your invention. I just made tiny change. Feel free to mention our website if you want to when you post the video.

odd man out · Apr 26th 2014, 2:09pm

BirdBrain wrote:

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

I found a Vienna sausage can with a rim that forms a tight seal when forced into a 12 fluid ounce soda can. The gap between the side walls of the cans is too big for capillary action. I will use an extra layer of aluminum to draw the fuel up the side.

I also had this idea but had not found a suitable can. I imagined cutting a strip of aluminum from a can, laying it out flat, denting to make corrugated, cutting to length, and inserting between the walls. Does the sausage can have a hoop on the rim?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYlyup3HqP0

I like this one. Do you know where the burn test video is? I wonder which of the filling materials worked best?

odd man out · Apr 26th 2014, 2:15pm

odd man out wrote:

I like this one. Do you know where the burn test video is? I wonder which of the filling materials worked best?

Never mind. Found them

stoviewander · Apr 26th 2014, 4:50pm

I built version 4.1 of the Penny Cyclone last night. The outer piece is the bottom 1 1/8" of a 12 fluid ounce soda can. The inner piece is the bottom 3/4" of a second 12 fluid ounce soda can. I drilled 4 drain holes 3/64" in diameter, 1 in the center, and 3 around the center. I drilled 6 jet holes 1/32" in diameter into the vertical portion rising from the concave area, as close to the concave area as practical. The jet holes are angled 30 degrees away from the axis of symmetry, and tilted up just enough for the pin vise to work. 12 holes 1/8" in diameter are centered 1/4" from the cut edge of the inner piece. The cut edge of the inner piece is gently pushed inward, forming rounded channels. The channels are deep at the cut edge, and shallow at the 1/8" holes. Both the top and the bottom of each 1/8" hole must be pushed inward, to avoid tearing the outer piece during assembly. The coatings are removed from the inside of the outer piece and the outside of the inner piece with a rotating wire brush, to make the JB Weld adhere well. The inner piece is pushed down into the outer piece until it resists further insertion.

I fired it up without JB Weld. The jets look good. I added JB Weld. It should be cured tonight around midnight. I will test again, this time with a pot stand, pot, and water.

stoviewander · Apr 26th 2014, 4:54pm

OMO - the sausage can rises approximately vertically, and then flares out. There are corrugations running around the circumference, which do not lend themselves to good capillary action. I have a way around that.

BirdBrain · Apr 26th 2014, 6:40pm

TETKoba, I ran tests on these stoves. They are the same design except for the top piece. The stove on the left ran very good. The stove on the right ran too hot. Maybe eFREVO should use 0.6 mm drill. You will probably do better than me. I don't drill through thin material good.

odd man out · Apr 27th 2014, 10:06am

stoviewander wrote:

OMO - the sausage can rises approximately vertically, and then flares out. There are corrugations running around the circumference, which do not lend themselves to good capillary action. I have a way around that.

Yes I picked up a can yesterday. I have most of this week off so I can play with it. I also have a Cat Food can left over from when I was making simmer cat stoves. It looks the same. Then I thought maybe they are the same product (inside and out) with different labels????

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 2:55pm

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

OMO - the sausage can rises approximately vertically, and then flares out. There are corrugations running around the circumference, which do not lend themselves to good capillary action. I have a way around that.

Yes I picked up a can yesterday. I have most of this week off so I can play with it. I also have a Cat Food can left over from when I was making simmer cat stoves. It looks the same. Then I thought maybe they are the same product (inside and out) with different labels????

That is my opinion of potted meat. The Vienna sausage with barbecue sauce was not as unappetizing as the other varieties.

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 3:26pm

stoviewander wrote:

I built version 4.1 of the Penny Cyclone last night. The outer piece is the bottom 1 1/8" of a 12 fluid ounce soda can. The inner piece is the bottom 3/4" of a second 12 fluid ounce soda can. I drilled 4 drain holes 3/64" in diameter, 1 in the center, and 3 around the center. I drilled 6 jet holes 1/32" in diameter into the vertical portion rising from the concave area, as close to the concave area as practical. The jet holes are angled 30 degrees away from the axis of symmetry, and tilted up just enough for the pin vise to work. 12 holes 1/8" in diameter are centered 1/4" from the cut edge of the inner piece. The cut edge of the inner piece is gently pushed inward, forming rounded channels. The channels are deep at the cut edge, and shallow at the 1/8" holes. Both the top and the bottom of each 1/8" hole must be pushed inward, to avoid tearing the outer piece during assembly. The coatings are removed from the inside of the outer piece and the outside of the inner piece with a rotating wire brush, to make the JB Weld adhere well. The inner piece is pushed down into the outer piece until it resists further insertion.

I fired it up without JB Weld. The jets look good. I added JB Weld. It should be cured tonight around midnight. I will test again, this time with a pot stand, pot, and water.

I tested the Penny Cyclone version 4.1 this morning with 15 ml Crown denatured alcohol in the burner and 5 ml on top of the JB Weld. There was too much wind for a good comparison with version 4. The wind blew heat and flames out the side of the pot stand, and the burner was slow to prime. I need a better windscreen, or at least an enclosed shelter for testing. I boiled 2 cups of 72F water in 6 minutes, and made oatmeal for breakfast.

I tested with a new pot stand, made from a 8 ounce pineapple can and an aluminum can of equal diameter (jalapeno cheddar dip, or Vienna bites). The steel can is taller, and has three of the four rows of holes. The aluminum can is shorter to keep the pot at the same height as the previous pot stand did. The rows of holes are spaced differently vertically. This version is heavier, but it should last longer in the hot flames. I left the bottom of the aluminum can intact so it could be used as a priming dish. The burner blooms much faster with a priming dish, but it is easy to build up excess pressure when using a priming dish. I crimped the cut edge of the aluminum can by pressing it between a 1/8" tent peg and one of two indentations on a folding rocking can opener.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 3:54pm

BirdBrain wrote:

TETKoba, I ran tests on these stoves. They are the same design except for the top piece. The stove on the left ran very good. The stove on the right ran too hot. Maybe eFREVO should use 0.6 mm drill. You will probably do better than me. I don't drill through thin material good.

Tested stoves more. eCHS is much better stove than eFREVO. eFrevo has fast boot but runs too hot and jets are not as good. I like the slanted creases and tabs of FREVO. I like the top of eCHS. I can build good eCHS Stoves, but need to slow them down a little. The next stove I build will have 21 FREVO creases, FREVO tabs, 7 x 0.7mm jets, and eCHS top. If that works the way I think it will, I will make one out of my new can I found. I need to find 0.7mm, 0.6mm and 0.5mm drill bits. I did conversion. I am using 1/32" drill bits. They equal 0.79375mm. I thought they were the same as 7mm. They are too big.

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 4:08pm

BirdBrain wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

TETKoba, I ran tests on these stoves. They are the same design except for the top piece. The stove on the left ran very good. The stove on the right ran too hot. Maybe eFREVO should use 0.6 mm drill. You will probably do better than me. I don't drill through thin material good.

Tested stoves more. eCHS is much better stove than eFREVO. eFrevo has fast boot but runs too hot and jets are not as good. I like the slanted creases and tabs of FREVO. I like the top of eCHS. I can build good eCHS Stoves, but need to slow them down a little. The next stove I build will have 21 FREVO creases, FREVO tabs, 7 x 0.7mm jets, and eCHS top. If that works the way I think it will, I will make one out of my new can I found. I need to find 0.7mm, 0.6mm and 0.5mm drill bits. I did conversion. I am using 1/32" drill bits. They equal 0.79375mm. I thought they were the same as 7mm. They are too big.

Drill bit numbers 70, 73, and 76 might work.

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 4:14pm

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 4:26pm

stoviewander wrote:

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

I use the yellow ones of these:

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-3m-2%22-radial-bristle-discs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCs0nh-l8ms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BrSMnNT9tyI

I am not sure you know this, but alcohol eats JBWeld like crazy. It is okay if you are just splashing a bit on it here and there and then burning, but puddles with eat through it.

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 4:33pm

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

I use the yellow ones of these:

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-3m-2%22-radial-bristle-discs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCs0nh-l8ms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BrSMnNT9tyI

I am not sure you know this, but alcohol eats JBWeld like crazy. It is okay if you are just splashing a bit on it here and there and then burning, but puddles with eat through it.

Thanks. I did not know that about the JB Weld. Does alcohol eat high temperature RTV silicone (red tube in Walmart's automotive section)?

odd man out · Apr 27th 2014, 4:37pm

stoviewander wrote:

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

OMO - the sausage can rises approximately vertically, and then flares out. There are corrugations running around the circumference, which do not lend themselves to good capillary action. I have a way around that.

Yes I picked up a can yesterday. I have most of this week off so I can play with it. I also have a Cat Food can left over from when I was making simmer cat stoves. It looks the same. Then I thought maybe they are the same product (inside and out) with different labels????

That is my opinion of potted meat. The Vienna sausage with barbecue sauce was not as unappetizing as the other varieties.

Good, that's the kind I got. I guess I'll have it for lunch tomorrow.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 4:39pm

stoviewander wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

I use the yellow ones of these:

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-3m-2%22-radial-bristle-discs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCs0nh-l8ms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BrSMnNT9tyI

I am not sure you know this, but alcohol eats JBWeld like crazy. It is okay if you are just splashing a bit on it here and there and then burning, but puddles with eat through it.

Thanks. I did not know that about the JB Weld. Does alcohol eat high temperature RTV silicone (red tube in Walmart's automotive section)?

I do not know. I know they have similar heat properties for intermittent exposure. The RVV is flammable though. I was tempted to try it early on, but after reading the MSDS, I changed my mind. The JB Weld site says that it is resistant to alcohol when fully cured. I fully disagree. I clean excess JB Weld of my stove after it is fully cured by using regular alcohol wipes. It comes off fairly easily.

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 4:43pm

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

OMO - the sausage can rises approximately vertically, and then flares out. There are corrugations running around the circumference, which do not lend themselves to good capillary action. I have a way around that.

Yes I picked up a can yesterday. I have most of this week off so I can play with it. I also have a Cat Food can left over from when I was making simmer cat stoves. It looks the same. Then I thought maybe they are the same product (inside and out) with different labels????

That is my opinion of potted meat. The Vienna sausage with barbecue sauce was not as unappetizing as the other varieties.

Good, that's the kind I got. I guess I'll have it for lunch tomorrow.

I ate mine wrapped in a couple of tortillas.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 4:43pm

I am tempted to buy these. I have never purchased products via eBay outside of the US. I can get the 3 sizes I want here. Anyone have an opinion of ordering overseas?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-Micro-Durable-Straight-Shank-Twist-Drill-Tiny-Spiral-Drill-Bits-0-6mm-LJN-/151227198325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2335d7eb75

stoviewander · Apr 27th 2014, 4:45pm

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

I use the yellow ones of these:

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-3m-2%22-radial-bristle-discs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCs0nh-l8ms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BrSMnNT9tyI

I am not sure you know this, but alcohol eats JBWeld like crazy. It is okay if you are just splashing a bit on it here and there and then burning, but puddles with eat through it.

Thanks. I did not know that about the JB Weld. Does alcohol eat high temperature RTV silicone (red tube in Walmart's automotive section)?

I do not know. I know they have similar heat properties for intermittent exposure. The RVV is flammable though. I was tempted to try it early on, but after reading the MSDS, I changed my mind. The JB Weld site says that it is resistant to alcohol when fully cured. I fully disagree. I clean excess JB Weld of my stove after it is fully cured by using regular alcohol wipes. It comes off fairly easily.

Alcohol wipes? That sounds like isopropyl.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 4:48pm

stoviewander wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

What is the best way to remove paint and polish an aluminum can? I am not sure I have the patience for jeweler's rouge. I tried a rotary steel brush, jeweler's rouge, and burnishing with the edge of a penny. The penny came closest to a mirror finish.

I use the yellow ones of these:

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-3m-2%22-radial-bristle-discs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCs0nh-l8ms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BrSMnNT9tyI

I am not sure you know this, but alcohol eats JBWeld like crazy. It is okay if you are just splashing a bit on it here and there and then burning, but puddles with eat through it.

Thanks. I did not know that about the JB Weld. Does alcohol eat high temperature RTV silicone (red tube in Walmart's automotive section)?

I do not know. I know they have similar heat properties for intermittent exposure. The RVV is flammable though. I was tempted to try it early on, but after reading the MSDS, I changed my mind. The JB Weld site says that it is resistant to alcohol when fully cured. I fully disagree. I clean excess JB Weld of my stove after it is fully cured by using regular alcohol wipes. It comes off fairly easily.

Alcohol wipes? That sounds like isopropyl.

It is. I believe methanol and ethanol would react in the same manner. I have seen other people on YouTube talk about this being an issue in stove building.

BirdBrain · Apr 27th 2014, 8:18pm

This is how our friends from Japan found us. I hope they stick around.

http://twitpic.com/e1asvi

TETKoba · Apr 28th 2014, 9:34am

BirdBrain wrote:

TETKoba, I do not have the ability to make a YouTube video. If my eFREVO Stove is worthy, feel free to make one and load it on your channel.

I've done the upload. Sorry for poor jets because this was my first time to build FREVO stove.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdaDgmC7s2o

The video is still limited open. I'll open to public after your acceptance.

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 11:18am

The CHS-Lazy alcohol burner was inspired by the capillary hoop stove designs of JSB and TETKoba. The burner is 1 3/8" (35 mm) tall, 2 5/8" (66 mm) in diameter, and weighs 0.7 ounces (21 grams). The jets form quickly after lighting, and remain lit until the fuel is used up. The jets decrease in size for a brief time at the end of the burn. The three layer design and capillary action keep most of the heat near the jets, and away from the base. The burner should operate normally when placed directly on a cold surface.

This burner is easy to build because the inner piece does not require slits, tabs, or creases. The most difficult and time consuming step is drilling the eight jet holes. Once you master drilling with a pin vise, the rest should be easy.

Materials

12 fluid ounce (355 ml), 16 fluid ounce (473 ml), or 8 fluid ounce (240 ml) aluminum beverage can, 66.2 mm in diameter
4.75 ounce (135 gram) Armour Vienna Sausage aluminum can, 61.4 mm in diameter at corrugations, 65.7 mm in diameter at rim
steel can with side wall smooth and vertical all the way to the bottom, 62 mm in diameter and at least 24 mm tall

I bought the steel can from American Science & Surplus. A 2.6 oz. Sterno can might work as a substitute. The corrugations in the sausage can's side wall create a very tight fit when inserted into the steel can. Removing the sausage can from the steel can requires patience and repeated pulling at various points around the rim. Before attempting insertion, remove the bottom of the sausage can, the label, and all glue.

Tools

Ruler
Sharpie Marker
Scissors
Pliers (Husky brand has flat jaws 1/4" (6 mm) wide and 1" (25 mm) long)
Center punch
Pin vise
1/32" (0.8 mm) drill bit

Construction

Open, empty, and clean the cans. Remove the labels and glue. Cut 39 millimeters from the bottom of the aluminum beverage can. Cut 29 millimeters from the top of the Vienna Sausage aluminum can. Cut 24 millimeters from the bottom of the steel can. Pinch the corrugated side wall of the sausage can with the pliers until it inserts easily into the steel can. File the rim of the sausage can and break off the inner piece to expose the flared portion of the side wall. Use the center punch to make 8 equally spaced indentations around the inside top of the flared portion. Drill the jet holes into the indentations with the pin vise, drilling from the inside outward. Hold the knurled shaft of the pin vise over the second hole away from the one being drilled (45 degrees away from intersecting the can's axis of symmetry), and tilted up just enough to turn it with your fingers. Delicate pressure should produce the best results, and avoid bending or breaking the bit. Leave the burrs on the outside of the jet holes, being careful not to damage them later during assembly.

Partially invert the domed bottom of the beverage can by pressing with your thumbs, carefully preventing it from bulging out past the bottom ring. Create a slight dome in the bottom of the steel can to make fuel drain toward the side wall. Press the round blunt (non-writing) end of the marker into the bottom of the steel can while turning the can, working from the the edge to the center. Insert the sausage can into the steel can. Insert both cans into the beverage can, pushing the rim of the sausage can as far down as it will go, below the edge of the beverage can. Roll and fold the edge of the beverage can over the rim of the sausage can, using the center punch first, followed by the pliers.

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 11:19am

Here are the rest of the pictures for the CHS-Lazy burner.

odd man out · Apr 28th 2014, 11:56am

stoviewander wrote:

The CHS-Lazy alcohol burner was inspired by the capillary hoop stove designs of JSB and TETKoba. The burner is 1 3/8" (35 mm) tall, 2 5/8" (66 mm) in diameter, and weighs 0.7 ounces (21 grams). The jets form quickly after lighting, and remain lit until the fuel is used up. The jets decrease in size for a brief time at the end of the burn. The three layer design and capillary action keep most of the heat near the jets, and away from the base. The burner should operate normally when placed directly on a cold surface....

Very nice. I will have to try this if I can find a steel can with the right specs. How did you cut the steel can? I would think that would be harder than the aluminum cans.

BirdBrain · Apr 28th 2014, 12:38pm

TETKoba wrote:

BirdBrain wrote:

TETKoba, I do not have the ability to make a YouTube video. If my eFREVO Stove is worthy, feel free to make one and load it on your channel.

I've done the upload. Sorry for poor jets because this was my first time to build FREVO stove.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdaDgmC7s2o

The video is still limited open. I'll open to public after your acceptance.

I am waiting on permission from one of the site administrators. I am not an authority here. I approve, but am waiting for their approval. There is one typo. You list AppalachianTailCafe.Net. It is "trail", not tail. It is a small change. About as small as my change to your stove.

You are very kind. All CHS stoves are because of you. All FREVO Stoves are because of JSB. I made a very small change. The eCHS and FREVO stoves are superior. I do not fully understand FREVO Stoves yet. The only advantage of eFREVO Stove is you do not need a circle cutter for the top. I hope there is a way to make the vortex appear on the eFREVO. I agree it is not in balance. Feel free to make it better. Maybe it can't be better. Maybe my idea is flawed. I am going to try again tonight.

Again, I approve. But I need a site administrator approval.

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 12:55pm

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

The CHS-Lazy alcohol burner was inspired by the capillary hoop stove designs of JSB and TETKoba. The burner is 1 3/8" (35 mm) tall, 2 5/8" (66 mm) in diameter, and weighs 0.7 ounces (21 grams). The jets form quickly after lighting, and remain lit until the fuel is used up. The jets decrease in size for a brief time at the end of the burn. The three layer design and capillary action keep most of the heat near the jets, and away from the base. The burner should operate normally when placed directly on a cold surface....

Very nice. I will have to try this if I can find a steel can with the right specs. How did you cut the steel can? I would think that would be harder than the aluminum cans.

I use blunt tipped Fiskars scissors. They have held up surprisingly well to many cuts in aluminum and steel cans. I replaced the original pivot with a small steel screw.

Here is the link to the steel can I used http://www.sciplus.com/p/ROUND-TINS-WITH-LIDS_54351

BirdBrain · Apr 28th 2014, 1:36pm

A triune quorum being reached, I am committing mutiny and giving my friends in Japan permission to post the video.

Again, TETKoba, you are very kind and generous. I hope JSB loads a video to show how to build a real FREVO so I can learn his secrets too. All that come here will know that you 2 are the developers of this technology.

Thank you. Feel free to load the video on YouTube.

AppalachianTrailCafe.net, get ready for the influx of TETKoba fans.

I have one question for you TETKoba. What did you do to your foot? :lol:

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 1:49pm

BirdBrain wrote:

A triune quorum being reached, I am committing mutiny and giving my friends in Japan permission to post the video.

Again, TETKoba, you are very kind and generous. I hope JBS loads a video to show how to build a real FREVO so I can learn his secrets too. All that come here will know that you 2 are the developers of this technology.

Thank you. Feel free to load the video on YouTube.

AppalachianTrailCafe.net, get ready for the influx of TETKoba fans.

I left a bread crumb over at bplite.com a while back, suggesting Zelph take a look at your stoves. Our exchange of posts is at http://www.bplite.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6190&p=49472#p49472

BirdBrain · Apr 28th 2014, 2:02pm

My eFREVO. I found some 0.5mm and 0.6mm bits today. I am going to do 3 things to slow this hot burning stove down.

1) I am going to increase the number of creases to 21. I remained convinced of the math that shows cross sectional area is reduced as the number of creases increase.

2) I am going to reduce the number of jets to 7.

3) I am going to reduce the jet diameter to 0.6mm.

The eFREVO runs way too hot. I may just end up creating jets that blow themselves out because they have too much pressure. I will soon find out.

odd man out · Apr 28th 2014, 3:22pm

stoviewander wrote:

Here is the link to the steel can I used http://www.sciplus.com/p/ROUND-TINS-WITH-LIDS_54351

I went through the cupboards and found a can of La Preferida Green Chilies that might work for the steel can. The bottom is different from yours. but the rim on the bottom is flush with the sides and will fit inside the pop can. It's a snug, but not tight fit. It slides in easily but there is no gap. I measure it to be 21/2 inches, but it's hard to be sure without calipers. I also have a Little Friskies cat food can. It seems to be identical to the Vienna Sausages can, but it doesn't have the horizontal ridges. Not sure if those are critical.

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 3:44pm

odd man out wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

Here is the link to the steel can I used http://www.sciplus.com/p/ROUND-TINS-WITH-LIDS_54351

I went through the cupboards and found a can of La Preferida Green Chilies that might work for the steel can. The bottom is different from yours. but the rim on the bottom is flush with the sides and will fit inside the pop can. It's a snug, but not tight fit. It slides in easily but there is no gap. I measure it to be 21/2 inches, but it's hard to be sure without calipers. I also have a Little Friskies cat food can. It seems to be identical to the Vienna Sausages can, but it doesn't have the horizontal ridges. Not sure if those are critical.

The gap between the two outermost cans should be much larger than the gap between the two innermost cans. The capillary action takes place between the side walls of the two innermost cans. The green chilies can is probably too large in diameter for building a CHS-Lazy burner, but the cat food can may be a winner. I will go shopping. I will also measure the 3 ounce potted meat can. I wish I had digital calipers. I had to estimate tenths of a millimeter with my calipers. I may have gotten lucky with my choice of cans.

AnotherKevin · Apr 28th 2014, 5:13pm

stoviewander wrote:

I wish I had digital calipers. I had to estimate tenths of a millimeter with my calipers. I may have gotten lucky with my choice of cans.

Don't your analog calipers have a vernier scale? Reading an Imperial caliper down to .001 inch or a metric one down to (usually) .02 or .025 mm is a matter of knowing how to read the scales against each other. There are a couple of good how-to's on the web, or at least they more or less match what I learnt in shop class.

instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/#step0

BirdBrain · Apr 28th 2014, 6:36pm

eFREVO 1.1
35mm height
21 creases
7 x 0.5mm jets

Just needs JB Weld on rim.

stoviewander · Apr 28th 2014, 6:39pm

AnotherKevin wrote:

stoviewander wrote:

I wish I had digital calipers. I had to estimate tenths of a millimeter with my calipers. I may have gotten lucky with my choice of cans.

Don't your analog calipers have a vernier scale? Reading an Imperial caliper down to .001 inch or a metric one down to (usually) .02 or .025 mm is a matter of knowing how to read the scales against each other. There are a couple of good how-to's on the web, or at least they more or less match what I learnt in shop class.

instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/#step0

Thanks for the link. I never had shop class. I had to figure out how to use the vernier scale on my own. The vernier scale on my calipers is marked in tenths of a millimeter. It was awkward for me to get good light on the calipers and avoid parallax at the same time, which was the main reason for my lack of confidence in the measurements. More expensive calipers would have clear markings, and a thin beveled edge on the sliding scale to minimize parallax.

I learned to work with sheet metal from books, the internet, and trial and error while building alcohol stoves.

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