As for pot stands, I use the 1/2" hardware cloth. But then I use a diagonal wire cutter to cut out every other wire to make 1" squares, staggered for a little extra stability. I fix mine in a circle by folding the extending wires over the other end. But I use a needle nose pliers to offset them up and down the diameter of the wire so the top and bottom wires are flush when they come together. When done cutting before wrapping, the wire cloth would look like this:
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I just drank 15 ounces of ginger ale. Now I have two empty cans. Time to build a CHS-U. The "U" might wind up meaning unorthodox in this case.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does
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BirdBrain wrote:
I did not like the U. It is too hard to drill the holes right. You will see what I mean when you try. :woohoo: The lip of the top makes it easy to get the holes right on the Easy.
It just occurred to me that you are not using V8 sized cans. I will be curious to see the completed stove. I have never tried to make a wider version of the chs-u.[/quote
I was planning on trying this too. I have V8 cans. I was a bit unclear on the holes. They go in from the outside but come out above the lid? Do you have to angle them up to do this? I know they should be angled radially to get the vortex. Also any tips on how to cut the hole in the lid? The video says that diameter is critical. I gather you want the remaining flange on the rim to be as small as possible? Also, I don't have a good hacksaw. Can I cut the tabs with a scissors? How important is the gap between the tabs? -
odd man out wrote:
BirdBrain wrote:
I did not like the U. It is too hard to drill the holes right. You will see what I mean when you try. :woohoo: The lip of the top makes it easy to get the holes right on the Easy.
It just occurred to me that you are not using V8 sized cans. I will be curious to see the completed stove. I have never tried to make a wider version of the chs-u.
I was planning on trying this too. I have V8 cans. I was a bit unclear on the holes. They go in from the outside but come out above the lid? Do you have to angle them up to do this? I know they should be angled radially to get the vortex. Also any tips on how to cut the hole in the lid? The video says that diameter is critical. I gather you want the remaining flange on the rim to be as small as possible? Also, I don't have a good hacksaw. Can I cut the tabs with a scissors? How important is the gap between the tabs?
I start the holes by pointing the drill bit straight in while using the rim as a guide. After I have an indentation and well before it drills through, I angle the bit so it is pointing sharply counterclockwise and up about 15°. Go slow without a lot of pressure. You do not want to elongate the holes. When you are done, the holes should point at every other hole as you move counterclockwise.
I use a wide marker to draw the amount of rim to be left on the opening. I use curved cuticle cutter scissors to cut the rough hole and then a rotary sander to remove the desired amount to get the final hole. You want to leave as much rim as possible. I use the initial opening created by opening the can as my guide and cheat back a little. The opening you drink out of ends up being barely narrower than the rest of the opening. If you make a narrow rim, the jets will not work right.
I use a box cutter to rough cut between the mark heights on the can and then scissors to trim more precisely. Use the box cutter as a saw to score the can deeply to create a starting point. Poke into the deep score and saw the can in half. It helps to tip the blade sideways a bit.
I have tried many methods to make the tabs. Currently I am using a 32 tooth hacksaw blade cut about 5" long with the end wrapped in duct tape to make a handle. I draw the blade sharply down the can along the marked lines. The teeth are pointing away as you draw toward you.
Hopefully this is clear. If not ask further.
Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
BirdBrain wrote:
stoviewander wrote:
I just drank 15 ounces of ginger ale. Now I have two empty cans. Time to build a CHS-U. The "U" might wind up meaning unorthodox in this case.
You need 3 for the U. You only need 1 for the Easy. I did not like the U. It is too hard to drill the holes right. You will see what I mean when you try. :woohoo: The lip of the top makes it easy to get the holes right on the Easy.
It just occurred to me that you are not using V8 sized cans. I will be curious to see the completed stove. I have never tried to make a wider version of the chs-u.
You need 2 for my CHS-Unorthodox. I used 50 mm of the bottom of one can as the outer piece. I removed the domed area of the second can bottom, made 8 deep creases by pressing the side between my thumb and a shepherds hook tent peg, and made 24 tabs. I cut the tabs with scissors. There is a cut at each crease, and two close to it. The two tabs near a crease are about half the width of each tab centered between the creases. This second can bottom slides easily into the first can bottom, once you get all the tabs inside. I removed essentially all of the flat area on the top of one of the cans. I cut off about 15 mm of the top, drilled eight angled holes 3/64" in diameter from the inside with a pin vise, inverted the can top, and pressed it into the 50 mm can bottom. The bottom of an 8 ounce Streamin' Cheese can worked well for seating it below the rim of the 50 mm can bottom. To fold the edge of the 50 mm can inward, I first ran my thumbnail around the inside, and squeezed the edge inward slightly. This left a visible indentation. Then I used my round tapered rod (center punch) to fold the edge inward and smooth it.
I tested it with almost 1/2 an ounce of denatured alcohol. There was a nice pillar of flame, but I did not get a good look at the jets because it was daylight.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
BirdBrain wrote:
I start the holes by pointing the drill bit straight in while using the rim as a guide. After I have an indentation and well before it drills through, I angle the bit so it is pointing sharply counterclockwise and up about 15°. Go slow without a lot of pressure. You do not want to elongate the holes. When you are done, the holes should point at every other hole as you move counterclockwise.
I use a wide marker to draw the amount of rim to be left on the opening. I use curved cuticle cutter scissors to cut the rough hole and then a rotary sander to remove the desired amount to get the final hole. You want to leave as much rim as possible. I use the initial opening created by opening the can as my guide and cheat back a little. The opening you drink out of ends up being barely narrower than the rest of the opening. If you make a narrow rim, the jets will not work right.
I use a box cutter to rough cut between the mark heights on the can and then scissors to trim more precisely. Use the box cutter as a saw to score the can deeply to create a starting point. Poke into the deep score and saw the can in half. It helps to tip the blade sideways a bit.
I have tried many methods to make the tabs. Currently I am using a 32 tooth hacksaw blade cut about 5" long with the end wrapped in duct tape to make a handle. I draw the blade sharply down the can along the marked lines. The teeth are pointing away as you draw toward you.
Hopefully this is clear. If not ask further.
Thanks. I think I have enough to get started. I think I need to fail a few times to figure what to ask next. -
I tested my CHS-Unorthodox this morning shortly before sunrise. The burner sat on an unopened 4 ounce can of green chiles while lit. With 1/2 ounce of denatured alcohol, no pot, no windscreen, and a breeze, it took 15 seconds for the jets to fully form, and 7 1/2 minutes to burn all the fuel. The jets appear similar to those of other CHS burners I have seen online. The burner was too hot to hold while lit, but the fuel did not boil at the bottom. Being too hot to hold suggests too much thermal feedback, but the 7 1/2 minute burn time suggests an inadequate fuel vaporization rate.
For this test, I drilled the jet holes straight in with a 1/32" bit. I held the top 15 mm of the can upside down by its rim, re-drilled the holes with a 3/64" bit, and increased the angle in the horizontal plane as the drilling progressed. I drilled from the inside of the can, and tilted the pin vise vertically only enough to keep the body of the pin vise above the cut edge of the can.
I see little hope of creating a vortex simply by drilling holes at an angle in the thin side wall of a beverage can. Granted, the thickness increases somewhat above the shoulder where the side wall tapers to meet the rim, but the thickness is still small relative to the diameter of the jet holes. I would expect an elliptical hole, and that is what I saw in my previous attempt (not posted). At best, perhaps drilling at an angle twists opposite sides of the hole in opposite directions - one inward, and one outward. If that is the case, then why not just drill the jet holes straight in, insert a pin, and twist each hole in the desired direction? I think I will try that and let you all know how it works.
Watching the videos of Tetkoba and Silvio again is not practical with the bandwidth here, so I used what I remembered and improvised the rest. I know 18 to 21 creases would have been orthodox, but I found 8 were easier to make. My tab design is also unorthodox, to work better with the decreased number of creases.
The potentate of insufficient illumination stopped by before I checked in and stole the light bulbs in the desk lamps. I have to sit on the edge of the tub to get enough light for a decent photograph.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
BirdBrain wrote:
stoviewander wrote:
I see little hope of creating a vortex simply by drilling holes at an angle in the thin side wall of a beverage can. Granted, the thickness increases somewhat above the shoulder where the side wall tapers to meet the rim, but the thickness is still small relative to the diameter of the jet holes. I would expect an elliptical hole, and that is what I saw in my previous attempt (not posted). At best, perhaps drilling at an angle twists opposite sides of the hole in opposite directions - one inward, and one outward. If that is the case, then why not just drill the jet holes straight in, insert a pin, and twist each hole in the desired direction? I think I will try that and let you all know how it works.
I experienced similar issues. I did 2 things to resolve this. I stopped drilling pilot holes (I slowly drill at the finished angle after the initial indentation is formed by the drill bit) and I build the chs-easy (the top of the can is much thicker). I also thought of drilling straight through and tipping the bit afterwards to create the angle. Let me know how that works. I would also suggest your holes are too big. I wish I could go smaller than 1/64". I broke the one 5mm bit I had.
To me this design is all about where and how the fuel is being burned. Most center burners are out of control flutterers. This design forces to fuel to be burned at the top only and allows for focusing jets at the center of the pot. I kept tinkering until that was happening and then adjusted height for the sweet spot. I am currently at 1 1/8".
It appears from your picture that the top hoop is too tall.
The chs-u is preferred by the inventor over the chs-easy. There must be a reason for that. I could not find that reason.
Thanks. I guess I am trying to do things all wrong. I guess you meant 0.5 mm? I have numbered drill bits with me, so I can go a lot smaller, but I will have to tweak the holes with a needle, not a 1 mm Hillman push pin.
Yes I think the top hoop is much taller than it needs to be. I just threw something together in a hurry. That piece was marked by bracing my Sharpie against the edge of the screw cap for the plastic bottle in which I keep my small tools. I only measured the spacing of the creases and the 50 mm height of the outer can bottom. The 50 mm was my best guess to fit the inner two pieces I had already cut.
I may also invert the two inner pieces, using a short piece of a can bottom above a longer piece of a can top. That will give me a much thicker wall to drill through, stronger support where the top piece experiences compression, and an easier to crease bottom piece. But the drilling will require greater precision, since the holes need to be close to the side wall to avoid being blocked by the rim of the can top.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
I used to think alcohol stoves were about being simple, cheap and light.
You guys have retained the cheap and light part but seem to have turned this whole thing into a science. You may not be rocket scientists but this can't be far behind.
Keep up the good work! gif.004 -
Here is the latest version of the CHS-Unorthodox.
The burner is now 1 11/16" tall. The outer can bottom was about 45 mm before I folded down the edge, vs. 50 mm for the previous version. The can top has 13 grooves instead of 8, and the tabs are smaller. I cut 10 mm from the bottom of a second can, drilled eight holes 1/32" in diameter, and filed it according to the video instructions.
I have not tested it yet.
I like the CHS-U better than the CHS-easy because I do not need high temperature epoxy.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
stoviewander wrote:
Here is the latest version of the CHS-Unorthodox.
The burner is now 1 11/16" tall. The outer can bottom was about 45 mm before I folded down the edge, vs. 50 mm for the previous version. The can top has 13 grooves instead of 8, and the tabs are smaller. I cut 10 mm from the bottom of a second can, drilled eight holes 1/32" in diameter, and filed it according to the video instructions.
I have not tested it yet.
I like the CHS-U better than the CHS-easy because I do not need high temperature epoxy.
I have a prediction: This one will be slower to bloom, will run better once bloomed and have long defined jets. The wider the rim, the slower the bloom and better the jets. I think there will be a point where it will not bloom as you make the opening narrower, but I am not sure where that is. I found the wider the opening, the faster the bloom, but at the cost of a defined jet. The positioning of the jets looks very good. I am not seeing much tilt in them though.Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
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odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush: -
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
I've shown my face a few times, you just haven't been around!Lost in the right direction. -
TrafficJam wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
I've shown my face a few times, you just haven't been around!
I suppose if I put the one of you peeking out of your raincoat together with the one of you with your shades and capped it with the fornicating reindeer then we can use a little mental photoshop and say you've shown your face.
-
Just Bill wrote:
TrafficJam wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
I've shown my face a few times, you just haven't been around!
I suppose if I put the one of you peeking out of your raincoat together with the one of you with your shades and capped it with the fornicating reindeer then we can use a little mental photoshop and say you've shown your face.
Don't forget to add the filter. :lol:Lost in the right direction. -
TrafficJam wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
TrafficJam wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
I've shown my face a few times, you just haven't been around!
I suppose if I put the one of you peeking out of your raincoat together with the one of you with your shades and capped it with the fornicating reindeer then we can use a little mental photoshop and say you've shown your face.
Don't forget to add the filter. :lol:
My version of mental photoshop doesn't have the filter upgrade. It does feature the trail chick setting though that makes women on the trail twice as attractive as in town so all's well that end's well. -
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Here are links to some useful tools.
You may find an X-ACTO pin vise at a hobby store - see http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/tools-accessories/tools-accessories/Pin-Vise-Set.aspx
I use a different one - see http://www.sciplus.com/p/PIN-VISE_45887
I use the Dremel 7-piece drill bit set - see http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-7-Piece-Drill-Bit-Set/16782563
I use the 7300 MiniMite cordless Dremel - see http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=7300#.Uzs37pWPK00I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
BirdBrain wrote:
stoviewander wrote:
Here is the latest version of the CHS-Unorthodox.
The burner is now 1 11/16" tall. The outer can bottom was about 45 mm before I folded down the edge, vs. 50 mm for the previous version. The can top has 13 grooves instead of 8, and the tabs are smaller. I cut 10 mm from the bottom of a second can, drilled eight holes 1/32" in diameter, and filed it according to the video instructions.
I have not tested it yet.
I like the CHS-U better than the CHS-easy because I do not need high temperature epoxy.
I have a prediction: This one will be slower to bloom, will run better once bloomed and have long defined jets. The wider the rim, the slower the bloom and better the jets. I think there will be a point where it will not bloom as you make the opening narrower, but I am not sure where that is. I found the wider the opening, the faster the bloom, but at the cost of a defined jet. The positioning of the jets looks very good. I am not seeing much tilt in them though.
I finished making my latest CHS-Unorthodox burner shortly after sunrise this morning. I tested during daylight, but did not see the jets. It burned fast and hot for 3 1/2 minutes, with almost half an ounce of denatured alcohol. I saw bubbles at the bottom of the creases. The location and large size of the bubbles suggested pressure in the side walls, not fuel boiling at the bottom.
I waited for sunset, and repeated the test. Pretty blue jets shot out at a noticeable angle and converged to form a vortex. A wide flame was visible below the jets.
About 20 seconds after lighting the burner, I saw small jets start to form. The jets were fully formed 25 seconds after lighting.
I tipped the burner so the fuel was near the wide end of the opening, and held the flame of a lighter near this area. Lighting the burner was easy due to the warm weather. Today's high was 75F in Luray, VA.
I did not find the jet holes to be difficult to drill. I drilled them with a 1/32" drill bit held in a pin vise. To make a vortex, I drilled the holes 45 degrees away from perpendicular, according to my understanding of Bird Brain's suggestions. I used what pressure I could without bending the drill bit. Here is a closeup of the holes, shot as close as I could get with my laptop's built in camera.
So now I want to see how short and light I can make it. I doubt I can beat Bird Brain's 7 gram burner. For something even lighter, see post #21 at http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118343. A real gram weenie might be willing to refuel and relight as needed.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
This is the angle I drill my holes at. Notice which jet it points at and the slight tip upwards.
Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
BirdBrain wrote:
stoviewander wrote:
Here is the latest version of the CHS-Unorthodox.
The burner is now 1 11/16" tall. The outer can bottom was about 45 mm before I folded down the edge, vs. 50 mm for the previous version. The can top has 13 grooves instead of 8, and the tabs are smaller. I cut 10 mm from the bottom of a second can, drilled eight holes 1/32" in diameter, and filed it according to the video instructions.
I have not tested it yet.
I like the CHS-U better than the CHS-easy because I do not need high temperature epoxy.
I have a prediction: This one will be slower to bloom, will run better once bloomed and have long defined jets. The wider the rim, the slower the bloom and better the jets. I think there will be a point where it will not bloom as you make the opening narrower, but I am not sure where that is. I found the wider the opening, the faster the bloom, but at the cost of a defined jet. The positioning of the jets looks very good. I am not seeing much tilt in them though.
Yea I have a prediction - its unsafe... pressure can build up and blow the top as it did mine. I was covered in burning fuel... CONTINUE TO USE THE EPOXY!Be wise enough to walk away from the nonsense around you!
-
WiseOldOwl wrote:
BirdBrain wrote:
stoviewander wrote:
Here is the latest version of the CHS-Unorthodox.
The burner is now 1 11/16" tall. The outer can bottom was about 45 mm before I folded down the edge, vs. 50 mm for the previous version. The can top has 13 grooves instead of 8, and the tabs are smaller. I cut 10 mm from the bottom of a second can, drilled eight holes 1/32" in diameter, and filed it according to the video instructions.
I have not tested it yet.
I like the CHS-U better than the CHS-easy because I do not need high temperature epoxy.
I have a prediction: This one will be slower to bloom, will run better once bloomed and have long defined jets. The wider the rim, the slower the bloom and better the jets. I think there will be a point where it will not bloom as you make the opening narrower, but I am not sure where that is. I found the wider the opening, the faster the bloom, but at the cost of a defined jet. The positioning of the jets looks very good. I am not seeing much tilt in them though.
Yea I have a prediction - its unsafe... pressure can build up and blow the top as it did mine. I was covered in burning fuel... CONTINUE TO USE THE EPOXY!
I am curious what design that was. Does not sound like fun. Pressure is always a concern with new designs. The cappilary hoop design is supposed to relieve pressure back through the bottom of the stove tabs. It is normal to have some bubbling there. Ideally it would be in balance and have minimal bubbling.Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
BirdBrain wrote:
JB said it right. You will have a bit of a time finding the right bit and when you do it will likely be part of an expensive set. Unfortunately the jets need to be accurate for this stove to run right. I have access to many 1/32" bits where I work. You need a pin vise too. It is nearly impossible to drill the holes perfectly without one.
Sorry.
Well I stopped at the HW store on my way home from work. Turns out we have a good old fashioned independent (not big box) store nearby. I went to the drill bit aisle and yes they had all sorts of bits (sets and individual ones) but only down to 1/16" So I asked the guy for help and he found tucked away in a corner that they were selling 1/32" bits, packaged individually in tiny zip lock bags with a hand written label for $1.69
Not sure how to use it yet, but impressed they had what I wanted.
http://www.gemmens.com/ -
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar. -
odd man out wrote:
BirdBrain wrote:
JB said it right. You will have a bit of a time finding the right bit and when you do it will likely be part of an expensive set. Unfortunately the jets need to be accurate for this stove to run right. I have access to many 1/32" bits where I work. You need a pin vise too. It is nearly impossible to drill the holes perfectly without one.
Sorry.
Well I stopped at the HW store on my way home from work. Turns out we have a good old fashioned independent (not big box) store nearby. I went to the drill bit aisle and yes they had all sorts of bits (sets and individual ones) but only down to 1/16" So I asked the guy for help and he found tucked away in a corner that they were selling 1/32" bits, packaged individually in tiny zip lock bags with a hand written label for $1.69
Not sure how to use it yet, but impressed they had what I wanted.
http://www.gemmens.com/
I took a bunch of in process photos today if you have note questions. They sell this item a Walmart if you need a cheap way to cut the top hole. $7.
Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
odd man out wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar.
OK new pic - Watching the Kingfishers at the NF Campground at Brevort Lake, just off US 2 a few miles west of St. Ignace MI, now in a Tilly Hat. -
odd man out wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar.
Your eyes are such a vivid blue.Lost in the right direction. -
odd man out wrote:
odd man out wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar.
OK new pic - Watching the Kingfishers at the NF Campground at Brevort Lake, just off US 2 a few miles west of St. Ignace MI, now in a Tilly Hat.
I have a bunch of kingfisher pictures. I will load one when I get home.Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball. -
TrafficJam wrote:
odd man out wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar.
Your eyes are such a vivid blue.
Butting in again -
And you are showing some leg. Are you practicing for hitchhiking?
I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
stoviewander wrote:
TrafficJam wrote:
odd man out wrote:
Just Bill wrote:
odd man out wrote:
What kind of drill bit are you using to drill the holes? The video says 0.8 mm, which I calculate to be 1/32". My set only goes down to 1/16 and I think I lost that one. Can go to the hardware store this PM. Will I find 0.8 mm as a drill bit size?
Well hey there OMO! Fancy meetin' you here. Looks like you went to the Traffic Jam School of Photography!
I found some of the mini drill bits and holders at a local hobby shop (Model train/RC car store), hardware store didn't have many of the micro stuff but if they have an exacto knife/dremmel bit section you might get lucky.
Between you and me though I never bought them because the set cost more than the stove- I just used a sewing needle glued into a dowel rod. :blush:
The pic was taken as I was going out to shovel 2 foot drifts of snow with a -25 wind chill back in January. The hat is Chinese rabbit fur. Got if for a buck at a church bazaar.
Your eyes are such a vivid blue.
Butting in again -
And you are showing some leg. Are you practicing for hitchhiking?
I don't need no stinkin' practice to hitchhike. I stick out my thumb and I hear the squeal of the brakes. :lol:
(That's my cyber hiking pic)Lost in the right direction. -
Skreeeeeeech!!!!!"Dazed and Confused"
Recycle, re-use, re-purpose
Plant a tree
Take a kid hiking
Make a difference -
TrafficJam wrote:
I don't need no stinkin' practice to hitchhike. I stick out my thumb and I hear the squeal of the brakes. :lol:
(That's my cyber hiking pic)
You need to stick out your thumb?! :ohmy: Complete strangers have given me rides, but I never stuck my thumb out.I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does -
Somebody said..................
"Well I stopped at the HW store on my way home from work. Turns out we have a good old fashioned independent (not big box) store nearby. I went to the drill bit aisle and yes they had all sorts of bits (sets and individual ones) but only down to 1/16" So I asked the guy for help and he found tucked away in a corner that they were selling 1/32" bits,"
When you're looking for small drill bits forget about fractional sizes and use bits that have number sizes. Here's a drill bit size chart....... -
LIhikers wrote:
Somebody said..................
"Well I stopped at the HW store on my way home from work. Turns out we have a good old fashioned independent (not big box) store nearby. I went to the drill bit aisle and yes they had all sorts of bits (sets and individual ones) but only down to 1/16" So I asked the guy for help and he found tucked away in a corner that they were selling 1/32" bits,"
When you're looking for small drill bits forget about fractional sizes and use bits that have number sizes. Here's a drill bit size chart.......
Ya', I found a 61 thru 80 set for $18 bucks recently. I said no thanks. I will keep using my 1/32" 3/64", and 1/16" bits. No reason to soak a guy like that.Non hikers are about a psi shy of a legal ball.
-
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