I have five different types of cans to make eCHS from. The circumference of the sidewall of the Jay Street can is 1mm smaller than that of the Milo can and 2mm smaller than that of the High Brew can. The Starbucks espresso and Kern's nectar cans fall between those extremes, with the espresso can being the larger of the two. The Starbucks and High Brew cans are both made by Ball. The others are of unknown manufacture. The Jay Street can shows obvious tool marks on the inner side of the rim/flange. The other cans have no such marks. The aluminum top/lid/closure of the Jay Street can is stiffer (most likely thicker) than that of other cans I work with.
I am making eCHS out of 7 cans (2 of the Kern's, 2 of the Starbucks, and 1 each of the others). I set the Compass Cutter for a 38mm diameter, puncture the center of the pull tab pivot, score the aperture, rough cut with tin snips, tear the remainder with pliers, grind with Dremel 115 high speed cutter in Dremel 7300 on low setting, deburr with the tang of a file, and dull the edge with extra fine steel wool.
I cut the top and bottom to be 1 13/32" (36 mm) tall by scoring with a single edge razor blade braced against the rim of a 3 OZ StarKist tuna can. I cut the Jay Street sidewall with scissors, and tear the other cans along the score. I file the cut edges, deburr with the tang of a file (Jay Street only), and dull with extra fine steel wool.
There will be 18 ribs/creases spaced every 9.2 mm, for a target circumference of 165.6 mm. The actual circumferences range between 164.5 and 166.5 mm. In theory, one pair of creases will be 1.1 mm too close on the Jay Street can, and 0.9 mm too far apart on the High Brew can. I expect wider actual deviations due to the hand crafted processing.
Making creases is every bit as difficult as I remember, especially without a three-sided scale and grooved jig. The creases need to be deep enough to allow smooth assembly of the two pieces. Otherwise, the pieces will bind or unwanted bulges will appear. I begin each crease by pressing a Westcott stainless steel 6 inch ruler into the shoulder of the can and work my way down to the cut edge.
I remove the coating from the rim and the inside of the can bottom with a Dremel 442 rotary brush and extra fine steel wool to ensure an adequate bond with the JB Weld.
I will drill 8 jet holes with a number 70 bit (0.71 mm).
The tabs will be 10 mm long for the Milo can and 6 mm long for the other cans..
I am making eCHS out of 7 cans (2 of the Kern's, 2 of the Starbucks, and 1 each of the others). I set the Compass Cutter for a 38mm diameter, puncture the center of the pull tab pivot, score the aperture, rough cut with tin snips, tear the remainder with pliers, grind with Dremel 115 high speed cutter in Dremel 7300 on low setting, deburr with the tang of a file, and dull the edge with extra fine steel wool.
I cut the top and bottom to be 1 13/32" (36 mm) tall by scoring with a single edge razor blade braced against the rim of a 3 OZ StarKist tuna can. I cut the Jay Street sidewall with scissors, and tear the other cans along the score. I file the cut edges, deburr with the tang of a file (Jay Street only), and dull with extra fine steel wool.
There will be 18 ribs/creases spaced every 9.2 mm, for a target circumference of 165.6 mm. The actual circumferences range between 164.5 and 166.5 mm. In theory, one pair of creases will be 1.1 mm too close on the Jay Street can, and 0.9 mm too far apart on the High Brew can. I expect wider actual deviations due to the hand crafted processing.
Making creases is every bit as difficult as I remember, especially without a three-sided scale and grooved jig. The creases need to be deep enough to allow smooth assembly of the two pieces. Otherwise, the pieces will bind or unwanted bulges will appear. I begin each crease by pressing a Westcott stainless steel 6 inch ruler into the shoulder of the can and work my way down to the cut edge.
I remove the coating from the rim and the inside of the can bottom with a Dremel 442 rotary brush and extra fine steel wool to ensure an adequate bond with the JB Weld.
I will drill 8 jet holes with a number 70 bit (0.71 mm).
The tabs will be 10 mm long for the Milo can and 6 mm long for the other cans..
The post was edited 4 times, last by WanderingStovie ().