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Knives

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    • I need a scissors to cut Leukotape so checked out the Victorinox Classic but found the scissors too small for my fat fingers. The I found the Victorinox Ambassador. It's identical to the Classic, but slightly larger. That makes the scissors much moe useful. The slightly larger blade allows me to cut down a redwood tree for firewood, filet an attacking grizzly, and slice Parmesan cheese (ok, just one of these). The flat tipped tweezers are useless so I carry a plastic tick twister. I once emailed Victorinox about making a useful tick removal tool for their knives. They did write back which was nice, but didn't seem interested.

    • odd man out wrote:

      I need a scissors to cut Leukotape so checked out the Victorinox Classic but found the scissors too small for my fat fingers. The I found the Victorinox Ambassador. It's identical to the Classic, but slightly larger. That makes the scissors much moe useful. The slightly larger blade allows me to cut down a redwood tree for firewood, filet an attacking grizzly, and slice Parmesan cheese (ok, just one of these). The flat tipped tweezers are useless so I carry a plastic tick twister. I once emailed Victorinox about making a useful tick removal tool for their knives. They did write back which was nice, but didn't seem interested.
      I have owned both Victorinox and Leatherman squirt - I have a collection of both brands. I can assure you the Squirt - holds an edge better, the file work better, the scissor action is the same. Simply better steel. Companies like EMS and REI, Dicks etc push the Swiss stuff as it is more sales volume and brand recognition. my suggestion is roughly the same amount of money and I think you will appreciate it more... I have given away some of my Swiss pocket because of my ownership and daily use of the Leatherman wave.
      Be wise enough to walk away from the nonsense around you! :thumbup:

    • Wise Old Owl wrote:

      odd man out wrote:

      I need a scissors to cut Leukotape so checked out the Victorinox Classic but found the scissors too small for my fat fingers. The I found the Victorinox Ambassador. It's identical to the Classic, but slightly larger. That makes the scissors much moe useful. The slightly larger blade allows me to cut down a redwood tree for firewood, filet an attacking grizzly, and slice Parmesan cheese (ok, just one of these). The flat tipped tweezers are useless so I carry a plastic tick twister. I once emailed Victorinox about making a useful tick removal tool for their knives. They did write back which was nice, but didn't seem interested.
      I have owned both Victorinox and Leatherman squirt - I have a collection of both brands. I can assure you the Squirt - holds an edge better, the file work better, the scissor action is the same. Simply better steel. Companies like EMS and REI, Dicks etc push the Swiss stuff as it is more sales volume and brand recognition. my suggestion is roughly the same amount of money and I think you will appreciate it more... I have given away some of my Swiss pocket because of my ownership and daily use of the Leatherman wave.
      Victorinox blades need to be ground to a tighter angle then the factory supplies. Once you fix the angle to around 12° the blade will stay sharp.
      Sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory.
      Dr. Seuss Cof123

    • I always hate shapening a knife the first time. I have to train it to my exact angle. once done it's easy to maitain at razors edge like it should be. A friend once commented that all my knives must be sharp...all the hair was missing from my left arm. It all comes down to qualty of the steeel. Harder it is, harder to sharpen & longer it will hold an edge.

    • Rasty wrote:

      Wise Old Owl wrote:

      odd man out wrote:

      I need a scissors to cut Leukotape so checked out the Victorinox Classic but found the scissors too small for my fat fingers. The I found the Victorinox Ambassador. It's identical to the Classic, but slightly larger. That makes the scissors much moe useful. The slightly larger blade allows me to cut down a redwood tree for firewood, filet an attacking grizzly, and slice Parmesan cheese (ok, just one of these). The flat tipped tweezers are useless so I carry a plastic tick twister. I once emailed Victorinox about making a useful tick removal tool for their knives. They did write back which was nice, but didn't seem interested.
      I have owned both Victorinox and Leatherman squirt - I have a collection of both brands. I can assure you the Squirt - holds an edge better, the file work better, the scissor action is the same. Simply better steel. Companies like EMS and REI, Dicks etc push the Swiss stuff as it is more sales volume and brand recognition. my suggestion is roughly the same amount of money and I think you will appreciate it more... I have given away some of my Swiss pocket because of my ownership and daily use of the Leatherman wave.
      Victorinox blades need to be ground to a tighter angle then the factory supplies. Once you fix the angle to around 12° the blade will stay sharp.
      I get it... no biggie - we have both researched this and I have found the stainless steel is harder on the competitor.. just saying.. So I went outside and cut some wood small branches... I am totally convinced... feel free to do your own side by side tests. I can only lead a horse to water ... cant make them drink it.
      Be wise enough to walk away from the nonsense around you! :thumbup:

    • I am a wood carver and I raise rabbits and chickens. I also hunt. I need a good knife for the things I do. I have found Schrade knives to be the best for me. Not expensive, they take an edge easily and hold it good. Stainless is ok for knives one doesn't use a lot. for a knife I use daily? pass the Schrade.
      bacon can solve most any problem.

    • Mountain-Mike wrote:

      I always hate shapening a knife the first time. I have to train it to my exact angle. once done it's easy to maitain at razors edge like it should be. A friend once commented that all my knives must be sharp...all the hair was missing from my left arm. It all comes down to qualty of the steeel. Harder it is, harder to sharpen & longer it will hold an edge.
      Best knifes I've ever had I made from left overs of high speed steel used in a lumber planer when it could no longer be sharpened due to size, took me 10 hours to hollow grind it by hand, no other knife I've had came close to it for holding and edge and skinning a deer, gave it to my son and then my daughter asked where her's was so I had to give her the other one I made.
      I may grow old but I'll never grow up.

    • I remember buying axes back in the 1960s, and using a mill file to change the angle on the cutting area. You have to make certain that you use the same number of strokes, and pressure, on both sides of the axe's blade. Otherwise you get problems... might be more of a chisel than an axe. Or the blade curls over and wont cut anything.

      Back about 1960 my dad and I went to a hardware store to buy my first hatchet. We went with the sales clerk's suggestion, but the darn thing was mild steel or hadn't been tempered before shipping to the store. It absolutely refused to hold an edge. Lots of farmers and ranchers came in there so we figured the employees knew what they were talking about.
      --
      "What do you mean its sunrise already ?!", me.

    • sheepdog wrote:

      I am a wood carver and I raise rabbits and chickens. I also hunt. I need a good knife for the things I do. I have found Schrade knives to be the best for me. Not expensive, they take an edge easily and hold it good. Stainless is ok for knives one doesn't use a lot. for a knife I use daily? pass the Schrade.
      Schrade is out of business. I own one because it works - I accidentally misplaced it and found it when we tore down the pool in the backyard. Guess what - no rust still works maintains an edge... won me over right then. Ul a couple of ounces... and I enjoy being an old fart with an old knife. I know it better than Swiss.
      Be wise enough to walk away from the nonsense around you! :thumbup:

    • TrafficJam wrote:

      How do you know the angle needs to be fixed and what should the angle be? How do you measure it?
      I know that if the axe edge looks like an aircraft wing leading edge, the angle is wrong. Not being blunt, but too large of an angle. It needs to be shallower.

      My old 1957 Boy Scout Handbook had drawings and advice, and I filed my axes according to that, and asked someone who showed me. But the handbook and those axes were lost years ago.

      Its just more learning than ability to explain.
      --
      "What do you mean its sunrise already ?!", me.

    • Drybones wrote:

      Mountain-Mike wrote:

      I always hate shapening a knife the first time. I have to train it to my exact angle. once done it's easy to maitain at razors edge like it should be. A friend once commented that all my knives must be sharp...all the hair was missing from my left arm. It all comes down to qualty of the steeel. Harder it is, harder to sharpen & longer it will hold an edge.
      Best knifes I've ever had I made from left overs of high speed steel used in a lumber planer when it could no longer be sharpened due to size, took me 10 hours to hollow grind it by hand, no other knife I've had came close to it for holding and edge and skinning a deer, gave it to my son and then my daughter asked where her's was so I had to give her the other one I made.
      Do you watch Forged in Fire? Interesting stuff
      I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does

    • SarcasmTheElf wrote:

      So how do you all fix an angle? I've got a couple of knives that can barely hold an edge anymore and that might be the problem.
      Step 1) Take a wire grill brush to your sharpening stone to open it up.

      Step 2) Break all the sharpening rules by swirling the blade at a shallow angle against the stone for about 30 seconds on each side while pressing really hard.

      Step 3) Ten strokes on each side then flip to the opposite side.

      Step 4) Repeat step 3 a few times

      Step 5) Sharpen backwards a few times on each side

      Step 6) Sharpen like it's a normal knife

      If this is a French Cleaver add a Step #0.5 which is use a 4.5" diamond wheel grinder to change the angle of the cutting edge first
      Sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory.
      Dr. Seuss Cof123

    • Wise Old Owl wrote:

      sheepdog wrote:

      I am a wood carver and I raise rabbits and chickens. I also hunt. I need a good knife for the things I do. I have found Schrade knives to be the best for me. Not expensive, they take an edge easily and hold it good. Stainless is ok for knives one doesn't use a lot. for a knife I use daily? pass the Schrade.
      Schrade is out of business. I own one because it works - I accidentally misplaced it and found it when we tore down the pool in the backyard. Guess what - no rust still works maintains an edge... won me over right then. Ul a couple of ounces... and I enjoy being an old fart with an old knife. I know it better than Swiss.
      Looks like they're still selling knives, under Taylor...and then there is this little gem. walking stick and knife.
      taylorbrandsllc.com/collection…-double-edged-spear-point
      bacon can solve most any problem.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by sheepdog ().

    • TrafficJam wrote:

      JimBlue wrote:

      TrafficJam wrote:

      How do you know the angle needs to be fixed and what should the angle be? How do you measure it?
      Its just more learning than ability to explain.
      Got it. One more thing they don't bother teaching in Girl Scouts. :thumbdown:
      My sisters wrre in Girl Scouts. I showed them knife and axe safety, and how to sharpen an axe. Their leaders were astounded that they knew how.

      This video is fairly good. He brings up a number of things that need to be learned to made a good sharp axe particularly for beginners.

      --
      "What do you mean its sunrise already ?!", me.

    • TrafficJam wrote:

      How do you know the angle needs to be fixed and what should the angle be? How do you measure it?
      The angle varies a little based on the type steel and material you're cutting, but as a rule, 12* is what you want on a knife, the important thing is to keep the angle the same on each pass or you will undo what you've done, draw the knife over the stone as if you are cutting a slice out of the stone...it takes practice...a knife that has a good hollow grind sharpens easy.
      I may grow old but I'll never grow up.