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A Lovely Trip in the Mountains (Or Why I Should Never Plan a Group Hike)

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    • A Lovely Trip in the Mountains (Or Why I Should Never Plan a Group Hike)

      Day 1

      After the busy holiday, I needed some trail time so planned a two day trip to hike a few miles on the BMT. As usual, my plan fell apart but it was still a fabulous and relaxing trip.

      The plan was to park at Tapoco Lodge and hike 1.6 mi SOBO to Yellowhammer Gap, where I ended my last hike. I would turn around and hike back, drive to Robbinsville, NC for the night, then return and hike NOBO.

      After a fun drive on the Tail of the Dragon (I only saw three other vehicles), I arrived at Tapoco Lodge to find it closed for the month and a gate across the entrance. Cursing myself for not checking their website, uncertain about wandering onto their property, and not having cell service to call, I drove down the closest road to find a place to park and think. This was Meadow Branch Rd. and lo and behold, there's the trailhead for the BMT NOBO with a small parking spot close by.

      As a section hiker, I try to finish where it is easy to resume at a later date. The only places where this looks possible in this section is at Old Field Gap Rd. (1.8 mi one way) or Fontana Heights Rd (~8 mi one way). There's a lot of walking on Forest Service roads but I don't know which ones are gated. Wanting to get on the trail, I headed to Old Field Gap Rd.

      It was a steep beginning that left me gasping but quickly warmed me up. The weather was overcast and cold with snow flurries. I love hiking in cold weather, it's peaceful and invigorating. There are some great views in this stretch and lots of steep, narrow trail.

      I arrived at Old Field Gap Rd. but wasn't ready to turn around so walked 0.5 mi down the FS road and turned onto the BMT, climbing up into the woods. I stopped for a quick lunch and headed back to the car.

      With lots of daylight left, I drove to Fontana to look around as I've only been there a few times. The drive through the mountains was really enjoyable, passing several dams and interesting cliffs. In Fontana, I saw several places to park with access to the trail.

      Resuming the pleasant drive through the mountains, I headed to Robbinsville, NC, and my small cabin at The Simple Life campground ($28). Along the way, I was excited to see where the AT crosses the highway at Stecoah Gap.

      Dinner was delicious Mexican food at El Pacifico. Disappointingly, it's a dry county so I didn't have beer with my dinner but thank goodness I brought one for later.

      The campground was cool and I was the only one there but the cabin was freezing inside. There was a small electric heater but after an hour, I was still shaking from cold and wearing my cold weather clothes. I crawled under the covers and seriously thought about driving home. Determined to stick it out, I waited and finally warmed up enough to enjoy my beer and book and get a good nights sleep.
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      Lost in the right direction.
    • TrafficJam wrote:



      Resuming the pleasant drive through the mountains, I headed to Robbinsville, NC, and my small cabin at The Simple Life campground ($28). Along the way, I was excited to see where the AT crosses the highway at Stecoah Gap.
      lol, you need to come up with a better adjective than "small". those cabins arn't large enough to be called small.

      i don't know if anyone here can relate to this reference (maybe mountain mike), but those cabins make the gone but not forgotten cabins at rainbow springs campground seem luxurious by comparison.

      all kidding aside, i'm glad you posted that. i just may go up there this spring. (i wish they didn't have the 2 nite minimum). its on my list, in any event.
      2,000 miler
    • max.patch wrote:

      TrafficJam wrote:

      Resuming the pleasant drive through the mountains, I headed to Robbinsville, NC, and my small cabin at The Simple Life campground ($28). Along the way, I was excited to see where the AT crosses the highway at Stecoah Gap.
      lol, you need to come up with a better adjective than "small". those cabins arn't large enough to be called small.
      i don't know if anyone here can relate to this reference (maybe mountain mike), but those cabins make the gone but not forgotten cabins at rainbow springs campground seem luxurious by comparison.

      all kidding aside, i'm glad you posted that. i just may go up there this spring. (i wish they didn't have the 2 nite minimum). its on my list, in any event.
      This is the first year they stayed open in winter and waived the 2 night minimum...and upgraded me to a double bed :D . I think that cabin is usually $38. The $28 cabin has a twin bed. It was a little weird being the only one in the campground.
      Lost in the right direction.
    • You went for an adventure, and while it might not be exactly what you had planned, it sounds like you definitely had one! :thumbup:

      I can relate to being alone. Of all the nights I have spent on Ouachita Trail, I have never camped with another hiker since my first night in Oklahoma at Thanksgiving 4 years ago.
      The road to glory cannot be followed with much baggage.
      Richard Ewell, CSA General
    • Astro wrote:

      You went for an adventure, and while it might not be exactly what you had planned, it sounds like you definitely had one! :thumbup:

      I can relate to being alone. Of all the nights I have spent on Ouachita Trail, I have never camped with another hiker since my first night in Oklahoma at Thanksgiving 4 years ago.
      Maybe it's you....
      bacon can solve most any problem.
    • LIhikers wrote:

      Actually, you probably should plan a group hike.
      Something south of the Mason/Dixon line for Café members who live down that way.
      Kinda like the MLK weekend thing we do up here in the northeast.
      I would be willing to try meet up for one of those, but being 9-12 hours away probably not the most reliable to plan it.

      But, being southerner's we are probably more likely to say MLK is too cold, and look at something more like Memorial Day.
      The road to glory cannot be followed with much baggage.
      Richard Ewell, CSA General
    • TrafficJam wrote:



      The campground was cool and I was the only one there but the cabin was freezing inside. There was a small electric heater but after an hour, I was still shaking from cold and wearing my cold weather clothes. I crawled under the covers and seriously thought about driving home. Determined to stick it out, I waited and finally warmed up enough to enjoy my beer and book and get a good nights sleep.
      Next time consider a fire.

      At least your beer was cold.

      Great pics.

      Lest we forget.....



      SSgt Ray Rangel - USAF
      SrA Elizabeth Loncki - USAF
      PFC Adam Harris - USA
      MSgt Eden Pearl - USMC
    • Day 2

      It was 20* in Robbinsville the next morning and a balmy 50* in the cabin. I packed up and drove down the road to McDonalds for limitless coffee and to wait for the sun to warm things up. Listening to the locals' conversation was quite an experience.

      Instead of picking the BMT back up at Old Field Gap Rd., I decided to head to Fontana to hike. At Stecoah Gap, I saw several backpackers standing in the parking lot talking to someone behind a table...trail angel, maybe? That made me curious but I didn't stop.

      The drive into Fontana is fun with several overlooks for photo ops. Somehow I missed seeing The Hike Inn the day before so was excited to see it and identify its location as their services will be needed this year.

      In Fontana Village, you can jump on the BMT at Lower Lewellyn Cove Loop with parking close by on West Welch Rd. The trail is easy through here so it took me a while to warm up. In this section, the BMT joins the AT right before the marina. Initially, the marina was going to be my turnaround point but I was winging it by then so continued to the dam. (Pro tip...no need to pee in the woods, the bathrooms are perfectly spaced apart.)

      In the Southeast, hiking in winter can be dull and gray but the leafless trees allow you to see things you otherwise wouldn't. Hiking on the AT/BMT along the shoreline was beautiful with the sun sparkling off the water through the trees.

      I enjoyed seeing the Fontana Shelter where I chatted with a transient who slept there the night before. Lunch was at the Overlook and was peaceful as I was the only picnicker. Finally, I wandered down to the dam before walking back to the car.

      Surprisingly, the drive to and from the trail is what made this a great trip. I'm usually so excited and impatient to be out hiking that I can't wait to get on the trail but on this trip, the driving rewards were almost as great as the trail rewards.

      **Expenses: Minimal. Less than 1/2 tank of gas, $28 lodging, $15 food, $1 lighter.**
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      Lost in the right direction.
    • So is the road over the dam open now? For cars and hikers? Northbound AT turns right after the dam, but I explored the dead end reached by turning left. Something was being built there. Can anyone tell me what?

      Has anyone else walked down to the campground near the base of the dam? I left the Fontana Hilton, passed the flush toilet / shower building, and crossed the road near the gate and the bear-proof trash container. I walked up around a small hill and then down to the campground. I took a different route back up, and passed what looked like a large concrete cave.
      I am human and I need to be loved - just like everybody else does